Sufre y Ama: Madrid’s Love Graffiti

•February 14, 2014 • Leave a Comment

In honor of today, Valentine’s Day (Día de San Valentín in Spanish), I would like to share a curious discovery that I made during my year studying abroad in Madrid from 2005 to 2006. 

As I began settling into my surroundings, I quickly became aware that some — perhaps lovelorn — madrileño graffiti artist was filling the city center with a unique and easily recognizable eye-patched figures with oversize red hearts. The tagline “sufre y ama” (suffer and love) usually accompanied the childishly crude drawings. Some were life-size, others were hidden, covered with partially-torn concert posters or at the bottom of back-alley door frames. 

I took it upon myself to become the unofficial “sufre y ama” photographer. During my months as a hyper-specific graffiti hunter in the Spanish capital, I was able to uncover about 30 different unique drawings scattered about the city’s historic center (I lived in Plaza Santa Ana, and spent much of my time in that neighborhood; it’s possible that what I found was just the tip of the iceberg). 

In this post I’ve published a small selection of the photos I took (some, it must be said, were too obscene for this particular blog). I would very much be interested to know if anybody else has noticed this graffiti, or — much less likely — know who is behind them, what the motivation was. In all likeliness, the artist will forever remain anonymous, and is probably exactly what he or she wanted.

Sufre y Ama:



















From the Archives: Osuna

•February 14, 2014 • Leave a Comment

From the Archives: Osuna

Flowers and church in Osuna, Sevilla (June, 2011)

From the Archives: Andalusian summer evening

•February 12, 2014 • Leave a Comment

From the Archives: Andalusian summer evening

A wall lizard’s silhouette inside a lamp, August 2012

From the Archives: Mérida, Extremadura

•February 11, 2014 • Leave a Comment

From the Archives: Mérida, Extremadura

Autumn afternoon at Mérida’s Roman amphitheater, 2012

My online photography portfolio

•February 7, 2014 • Leave a Comment

My online photography portfolio

After a lengthy hiatus, I return with an invitation for you to view a selection of my photographs from my life and travels throughout Andalucía, the rest of Spain, and beyond!

Feel free to leave comments on any of the photos, and enjoy!

Proud to be Andalusian

•October 5, 2011 • Leave a Comment

A recent spoof of a Nike commercial from comedian Manu Sánchez’s show, “La Semana Más Larga,” about important Andalusian figures from all periods of history. My town, Castilleja de la Cuesta, gets a shout out as Rita Hayworth’s hometown. But alas, that’s a bygone era. They don’t make Rita Hayworths like they used to.  Now Castilleja is just famous for olive oil wafers. Yum.

Camino de Santiago, 2011 (part 5)

•August 18, 2011 • Leave a Comment
cows on camino

A Galician farmer leads her cows against the flow of pilgrims on the Camino




Portomarín, Galicia



camino in galicia

A section of the Camino de Santiago in a Galician forest



morning light

Morning light on the final stage of the Camino



evening view of santiago´s cathedral

An evening view of the Catedral de Santiago across the Praza do Obradoiro



Santiago's cathedral by night

Santiago's cathedral by night



santiago cathedral by night

Another night view of the Catedral de Santiago



park in santiago de compostela

Trees in a park in Santiago de Compostela



triple spiral staircase, museo do pobo galego in santiago

The world's only triple spiral staircase in Santiago's Museo do Pobo Galego



chapel in museo do pobo galego

Church chapel in Santiago's Museo do Pobo Galego



crucifixion piece in museo do pobo galego

Museo do Pobo Galego



view of cathedral from park

View of Santiago's Old Town from a park



park view of museo do pobo galego

View of the Museo do Pobo Galego from a park



crucifixion colexiata del sar

Crucifixion piece in Santiago's Colexiata de Sar church



divine mark

Heavenly beams in the Colexiata de Sar



last afternoon in santiago de compostela

Last afternoon in Santiago de Compostela